Faucet & Sink Repair in Sandy, UT

A dripping faucet, a leaking shower valve, or a sink you want replaced — most of these come down to a worn cartridge or seal, not a bigger problem.

Cartridge & valve replacement

Designer sink & faucet installs

Indoor & outdoor fixtures

Call (385) 555-0103 Dripping faucet?

Kitchen faucet cartridge stem exposed for replacement — Once this stem is out, the cartridge behind it is almost always the actual source of a drip.

Leak not at a fixture? A whole-house re-pipe is a different project → Whole-House Repiping. Not sure where a leak is coming from → Water Leak Detection.

A dripping faucet, cartridge by cartridge

Almost every dripping faucet comes down to a worn cartridge, O-ring, or washer inside the fixture, not a problem with the pipes behind it. Matching the exact cartridge to your faucet's make and model matters, since the wrong part can leave the same drip or even make it worse.

Close-up of a dripping modern bathroom faucet — Left alone, a drip this steady adds up to real money on a water bill over a year.

Shower valves & bathtub spouts

A shower that drips after it's turned off, or a valve that's hard to adjust to temperature, usually needs the same kind of cartridge or seal replacement as a sink faucet, just behind a wall instead of under a counter. A leaking tub spout diverter is a related, separate part worth checking at the same time.

Supply and drain lines disconnected from a sink faucet — The same cartridge-and-seal fix that handles a sink faucet applies behind a shower wall too, just with a harder path to reach it.

Dripping faucet, leaking valve, or ready for new fixtures?

Call (385) 555-0103

New chrome kitchen faucet installed beside a window — Matching a new faucet to the existing sink holes is usually the part of this job that takes the extra time, not the faucet itself.

Outdoor hose bibs

An outdoor spigot that drips or won't fully shut off is often a worn washer, the same fix as an indoor faucet, but a bib that's frost-split from a winter freeze needs the damaged section replaced, ideally with a frost-proof model so it doesn't repeat next winter.

Worn washer pulled from a hose bib stem — A washer this worn is the usual reason a bib won't fully shut off, and it's a quick swap once the stem is out.

Installing a new sink or faucet

Straight swap: new faucet on an existing sink, matched to the existing hole configuration.
Designer upgrades: farmhouse sinks, touchless faucets, and pot-filler installs that need supply line and sometimes countertop adjustments.
Full sink replacement: new sink and faucet together, including resealing the countertop cutout.

Low pressure at one fixture only

If just one faucet runs weak while the rest of the house is fine, that's usually a clogged aerator or a partially closed shutoff valve under that specific sink, not a whole-house pressure problem. We check the simple cause first before assuming anything bigger.

Faucet valve body openings inspected before installation — One faucet running weak while the rest of the house is fine almost always traces back to something this simple.

How a repair visit works

1. Identify the fixture & symptom: drip, leak, low flow, or a planned replacement.
2. Match the part: cartridge, valve, or seal specific to your fixture's brand.
3. Repair or install: on the same visit in almost every case.
4. Test under use: full flow and shutoff checked before we leave.

What affects the cost

Repair vs. replacement: a cartridge swap is a small job; a full fixture replacement costs more.
Fixture tier: a standard faucet installs faster than a designer or touchless model.
Access: an in-wall shower valve takes longer to reach than an under-counter faucet.

See our cost page for wide price ranges.

Hard water's effect on fixtures

Sandy's water tests at 9.1 grains per gallon, hard enough to leave mineral scale inside aerators and cartridges faster than it would on soft water. If a faucet is dripping again within a year or two of its last repair, that's often a hard-water-driven pattern rather than a bad part, and a water softener can extend the life of every fixture in the house, not just the one we just fixed.

Hose bib handle checked for smooth operation after repair — Turning the handle through a full cycle, shutoff included, is the last check before we call a repair done.

Choosing fixtures that hold up

Ceramic disc valves generally outlast rubber-washer designs under hard water conditions, and a faucet with a longer manufacturer warranty on its cartridge usually reflects that durability. We'll point out which models hold up best locally rather than let price alone decide.

A loose or wobbly faucet

A faucet that rocks at the base is usually a loosened mounting nut underneath the sink, an easy fix, but one that's often ignored until the wobbling stresses the supply line connections and causes a slow leak there instead. Worth a quick check even if it's not bothering you yet.

Sink repairs beyond the faucet

A slow-draining sink that isn't a clog issue can be a worn basket strainer seal in the sink itself, and a cracked porcelain or cast-iron sink basin needs replacement rather than a patch. We check the sink and the faucet together on a repair visit, since a leak can originate from either.

Pull-down versus standard kitchen faucets

A pull-down kitchen faucet's spray head and hose assembly is the part that typically fails first, well before the faucet body itself wears out, since it's the only moving, flexing component. A standard fixed-spout faucet has fewer moving parts and generally fewer long-term failure points, which is worth weighing if you're replacing one and deciding between the two styles rather than defaulting to whichever looks nicer in the showroom.

Bathroom sink pop-up and drain repairs

A bathroom sink that won't hold water, or a pop-up stopper that's stuck open or closed, is usually a simple linkage adjustment under the sink rather than a full fixture replacement. It's one of the quicker repairs we handle, often resolved in the same visit as a faucet repair if both issues are present at once.

Compression versus cartridge versus ball faucets

Older two-handle faucets typically use a compression or stem mechanism, while most modern single-handle faucets use a cartridge or ball valve design, and knowing which type you have changes both the repair approach and the parts needed. We identify the mechanism during the call when possible, based on your description of the faucet's age and handle style, so we arrive with the right parts rather than guessing.

Under-sink shutoff valve replacement

The small shutoff valves under a sink, used to isolate that fixture without cutting water to the whole house, corrode and seize over years of non-use, and a valve that won't turn is a problem you usually only discover when you actually need it during an emergency. Replacing a seized shutoff valve during a routine faucet repair is a small add-on that prevents a bigger headache later.

Matching fixture finishes during a partial replacement

When replacing just a faucet while keeping an existing sink, or vice versa, matching the finish (chrome, brushed nickel, matte black, and so on) matters for appearance even though it has no effect on function. We can help source a close finish match if you're not doing a full fixture replacement, since finish lines and availability shift between manufacturers and model years.